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Doing this right saves you money and it keeps your customers happy. It means no more expensive reprints and no more bad reviews. We are going to show you exactly how to dial in your shop for success.
Common Curing Problems with Plastisol Ink in Factory Production Read More »
As a Solutions Specialist here at HONG RUI SHENG, I’ve spent years helping importers navigate the “grey areas” of textile chemicals. But in 2026, those grey areas have turned into hard lines. Whether it’s the new CPSC eFiling mandate in the US or the expanded REACH Omnibus VIII restrictions in Europe, the regulatory floor is moving faster than most factories can keep up with.
Phthalate-Free Plastisol Ink: Compliance Checklist for EU & US Importers Read More »
Your plastisol ink cracks because it never reached the right temperature. It is that simple. Most people think the ink is dry because it feels dry to the touch but it is actually under-cured inside. To fix this you must ensure the entire ink film hits 320°F (160°C) from top to bottom. When you get
Why Your Plastisol Ink Cracks After Washing (And How to Fix It) Read More »
To guarantee a perfect cure every time, your plastisol ink must reach a core temperature of 320°F(160℃) for at least 60 seconds. Doing this right ensures your prints survive 50+ industrial washes, stays elastic, and keeps your reputation solid.
Plastisol Ink Not Fully Curing? Temperature Guide for Bulk Printing Read More »
If your prints fall off the shirt after one wash you are losing money and your brand reputation is at risk. The simple truth is that most commercial orders fail because the ink never reached its melting point. To fix this you must ensure the entire ink layer hits 320°F (160℃) for at least 15 seconds. This creates a permanent bond and it keeps your customers coming back for more.
How to Improve Wash Fastness of Plastisol Ink in Commercial Orders Read More »
To stop the bleed, you must keep the heat down. We use low-bleed white ink and stay under 280°F (138°C). We also use a grey barrier base for 100% polyester. This keeps the colors sharp and keeps your customers happy. It saves you money and it keeps your reputation solid.
Stop the Bleed: How We Prevent Dye Migration with Plastisol Ink on Polyester Read More »
When plastisol ink sits in a cool warehouse, it builds up a chemical “structure” that makes it feel like thick jelly. If you toss that straight onto a screen, the first 50 prints will be light and patchy. As the squeegee friction warms it up, the ink suddenly thins out, your “dot gain” explodes, and suddenly your fine lines are bleeding.
Black Plastisol Ink for Textiles: How to Maintain Color Consistency at Scale Read More »
If you want to stop ghosting right now you should cool your shirts to 100°F before you stack them. You also need to switch to a white plastisol ink that does not use harsh bleaching chemicals. Doing these two things will save your fabric but it will also keep your customers happy. We have seen
Troubleshooting Plastisol Ink Ghosting in High-Speed Production Read More »
If you’re tired of plastisol ink sticking to the back of your screens, it’s time to check your screen tension and your off-contact right now. It’s usually that simple. Adjusting these settings kills that annoying “picking” effect before it ruins your designs. When you get this right, you can finally run your automatic press at full speed yet your colors will stay sharp all day long.
Stop Plastisol Ink Build-Up on Your Automatic Press Now Read More »
Your ink probably just needs a good workout. Most plastisol is thixotropic and that means it gets thick when it sits still but gets creamy when you move it. We recommend you stir the ink for at least 60 seconds before you add any chemicals. If it is still like a brick after stirring then you should add 1-3% curable reducer by weight. This keeps your colors bright and it makes your prints feel like clouds on a t-shirt.
Why Plastisol Ink Feels Too Thick (And How to Adjust Viscosity) Read More »
